We thought we were leaving Nampula that night, so we planned our day accordingly. Andrew checked on reputable bus companies while I went out to collect eggs and bread with our new friends Eben and Annelies to prepare for breakfast. (We were all pretty elated over the kitchen at our disposal in the emptied out guesthouse that morning.) We hadn’t planned on running into the spider and had to document it en route to the bakery.
Andrew discovered that the reputable bus company we heard also had comfortable seats was closed for the month. Of course. So we went back to the bus station to see what other companies were operating. He tested out seats. We were assured there wouldn’t be anyone standing in the aisle, reserved two seats, and then took out a ridiculous amount (the most, I should add, that we’ve had to pay for any bus ride on this trip, even when we’ve crossed multiple borders) of money to pay for our seats. And finally, what was the most fun part of the day, we modeled some STD necklaces for Annelies.
Yes, as in venereal disease themed necklaces. I picked “Herpes.” How, you might be wondering did this come about? Well…
Eben had originally introduced Annelies to us as a sculptor. She had gaped at her husband.
“Sculptor? That’s a new one!” She teased him and then explained that she is a contemporary jewelry designer. I was intrigued, wondering what exactly what kind of jewelry a contemporary artist makes. (Spoiler alert: Awesome jewelry. That’s what kind of jewelry she makes.) I told her I was a photographer and that I dabble in a little contemporary art myself and we immediately exchanged images of our work. I was in heaven. I think she was too, because she bemoaned the fact that we were leaving in the middle of the night and we wouldn’t get to talk some more.
She asked us if we would model some pieces for her before we left and we agreed. We shrugged when we found out what exactly the pieces were. I try to help other artists with their work as often as I can. I know what it’s like trying to get models or participants for a project. It can be hard. So I think of it as artist karma or something like that… I also think I’ve rubbed off on Andrew, because he generally plays along.
Unfortunately getting money for our bus tickets took forever, and we were losing light by the time we got back to model. We tried nonetheless, and then slipped into our bunk beds to try to get an hour or two of sleep before our taxi came to collect us around one in the morning.
I tried to edit photos below Andrew tossing and turning on the bunk above, until eventually he climbed down, worried about his leg. He hadn’t told me it had been hurting that afternoon. Immediately, I began to worry and insisted we stay and go to the doctor. He worried. Not about his leg, but about the expensive bus tickets we wouldn’t be able to use. I asked him what he would do if it were me. He assured me that was different. I rolled my eyes and waited. Eventually, he acquiesced and we agreed to stay in Nampula and go to the clinic tomorrow.
Annelies was overjoyed.
(I wasn’t overjoyed Andrew’s leg was now hurting, but I was glad we were going to a doctor, and yea, ok, I would get to hang out with Annelies and Eben some more!)