Jemaa el-Fnaa

Day 154: Marrakech

Marrakech was considerably more touristy than the previous Moroccan cities and towns we visited. The kind of touristy when you know they must have dropped a small fortune to be there. Lots of European vacationers. Lots of older couples. Lots of money. We walked through Jemaa el-Fnaa in the morning and had an entirely different experience than we had at night. Circles were formed around snake charmers, fortune tellers, monkey handlers, and even a magician.

It sounds exotic, but it felt anything but. It felt dirty. Snakes were often laying on hot stones, monkeys were dressed up with cuffs they held onto to as if to try to keep it off of their necks. Everyone asked for money. You want a picture? You have to pay. You want your fortune read, henna on your hands, the opportunity to hold an imprisoned monkey? You have to pay. The magician was friendly enough to invite me to do some of his tricks myself, but I was clueless, and more likely the butt of his jokes in lieu of being a fabulous assistant. Which, maybe, in his eyes, made me a fabulous assistant. That is, until he handed over his stage to the man missing a leg to ask for his own share of money.

We walked around the square (Jemaa el-Fnaa), the mosque, the El Badi Palace and then went back to the square for dinner at the stalls. My favorite part of the day was probably listening to the storks chatter on the walls of the El Badi Palace. I’m not usually one for bird watching, but I could have watched these giant birds all day long. There were huge nests on the walls and they were so loud, it sounded like someone was taking a more colorful sounding jack-hammer to the walls of the ruins.