Day 329: Museum of Communism oh, and another walking tour

I have a small obsession with Communism. You may remember I’m a big fan of old communist propaganda prints? I’ve been to this museum before, but obviously, in order to feed my obsession I didn’t mind returning! The Museum of Communism isn’t nearly as thought out or artistically designed as… say, The House of Terror in Budapest was, but it’s not as bad as some of the Trip Advisor reviews say it is. It is in desperate need of some updating (or at least a discount until it is updated?) but if you’re into history, you might enjoy it. Afterwards, wanting to make up for two bookkeeping (planning/blogging/escaping the heat) days, we joined anotherfree walking tour through Prague. We were so pleased it turned out to be sooo much better than the worst ‘free’ walking tour we took a few days ago. Our guide, David was so nice (and educated and certified!) we ended up sticking around for the second part of the tour on the other side of the river!

The Museum of Communism was just as I remembered, not fun to pay for (a bit overpriced for an exhibition space so outdated in my opinion) but fun to see nonetheless. I think one of the downsides to this trip (in a way) is that we’re exposed to so many great museums that when we come across one that isn’t up to par with some others around the world, we get a little disappointed. At least I do.

I looked the museum up just now to find out some more information and was a bit surprised to discover the founder is also responsible for Bohemia Bagel (an old favorite) and U Malého Glena (a jazz club that was right across the street from my old apartment). Bohemia Bagel was one of the few (at the time you could count on one hand) places where you could get a good internet connection and a western style breakfast or brunch. It was great. These days it’s full of backpackers on a the free walking tour associated with the restaurant or signing up the affiliated pub crawl. I’m wondering if the same owner is responsible for this… If so, I’d like to shake his hand for the good bagel sandwiches six years ago and wring his neck for putting my old favorites on the average 19 year old backpacker’s to do list today. (If you’re interested in reading more about the American born entrepreneur, you can do so here, and here.)

During the first half of the free walking tour, we covered much of the same ground (and information) as we did during the first one. Old Town Square, the Astronomical Clock, the Clock Tower, the stables next to and behind Tyn Church, the Jewish Quarter, and stopped short of Charles Bridge. The group was not so large, and aside from the weird American family (working for the state department abroad) it was a great group to talk to. The weird family took off early, and the guide was so sweet, we decided to stick continue on with the tour on the lesser side (Mala Strana) for the second half of the tour. Although, I really appreciated that there was a break and an option halfway through to continue on, or leave, or perhaps pick up with the tour on another day!

The tour ended within the walls of Czech Castle. We had just enough time to sneak down to the gardens for a view of the city below before it started to rain during our walk back across the river. We ran into two girls from the tour at the same restaurant our guide suggested. As they were from South Korea, they were a bit flabbergasted to find out we had lived there for so long, knew where they went to school, and could even do spot on ajjushi impersonations for them. I never think this is crazy, half of my friends are from my time in Korea. When you’re surrounded by similar people or at least doing similar things, it doesn’t seem as unique. It was my life. It just happened to be in a country not everyone would think a girl from Kentucky would pick to reside in. Chatting with these two tonight made me wonder what reactions will be when we move back to America. Are we really that unique for having lived in South Korea for so long? I don’t really think so, but I’m sure we’ll find out in a few months!

We managed to escape the torrential rain (perhaps you can tell by the gloomy sky above?) but our room, despite having all of its windows shut, did not. Neither did my backpack- full of clothes, souvenir ticket stubs, tourist pamphlets, and one of my travel journals full from this trip. But we’ll get to that tomorrow. Don’t be surprised when Day 330’s blog post is titled For SHAME, Hostel Florenc, For SHAME!

Day 326: Mala Strana (part 2) Kampa Museum

We’re baaack in Mala Strana, more specifically; Kampa. I just can’t get enough. Andrew apparently can’t get enough of contemporary art either, because he insisted we go to another museum. Ok, so maybe insisted is the wrong word, but there was a Gerald Scarf exhibition at the Kampa Museum he was keen on seeing and I was not one to complain. We headed straight for the museum (I went a little crazy taking pictures of the pieces I liked most) and then strolled past the Lennon Wall before having dinner at another old haunt, The Hanging Coffee and making an appearance (and a rather weak performance) at a local English trivia night!

I don’t often photograph art – in museums – like I did today. For some reason, I just couldn’t help myself. I really liked some of the pieces and some I just thought were really fun to play with the juxtaposition and depth of field. Unfortunately, I didn’t jot down all of the artists’ names. I feel a bit bad about this. But I’m pretty sure everything I photographed is part of the permanent collection. Except the Gerald Scarf prints. I don’t know if I have a preference between Kampa Museum and the DOX Museum. They were a bit different, and I have a feeling that bigger traveling exhibitions circulate through the DOX. I wasn’t terribly impressed with the Judith on Kampa exhibition featuring works by Klimpt, Mucha, and Kupka- but that’s mostly because it wasn’t a very large collection, and I’m a bigger fan of Mucha (not so much Klimpt, Kupka is ok I guess, although I don’t know much about him) But bottom line is- if you want to see Mucha, then you should go to the Mucha Museum (in Prague) instead.

The personal collection was cool though, and perhaps had I known better, and if Andrew hadn’t wanted to see some Pink Floyd artwork, we would have only paid to see the permanent collection. I always tease Andrew (and maybe I’ve mentioned it on the blog before?) that I only want to be rich so I can be all ‘Pretty Woman’ (Big Mistake. HUGE.) to snooty sales clerks in high end stores. Now, I would also like to have a small fortune to my name so I can collect random modern art pieces and have a ‘collection.’ I think Andrew is down for both- watching me pretend I’m ‘Pretty Woman’ and buying lots and lots of art.

There were a few pieces of Gerald Scarf’s works that really spoke to me. Like, for instance, the one above: from Pink Floyd’s We Don’t Need No Education: the teacher is throwing up into the students’ mouths. Hey! Teacher! Leave those kids alone! 

The Lennon Wall! Once upon a time, my name resided here. I’m sure it’s still there, buried under layers and layers of paint. Andrew usually surprises me with restaurants on this trip, or places he thinks I’ll like that I didn’t look up (and he did) so it was really fun for me to be able to surprise him all over Prague. Had I been really thinking, I would have made it a point to stop and get some spray paint on our way…

Another surprise was climbing up the hill towards the castle, but turning off and taking Andrew to The Hanging Coffee instead. I think Alex (my old roommate) introduced this restaurant to us back in the day, but I can’t be so sure. Either way, it has really great food. We usually went for dinner and drinks, but I hear the coffee is good (and unlimited)! My favorite part is that everyone else there spoke Czech. No pub crawl coming through here, yet… After dinner, we joined an English trivia night, and we made the most epically dismal display of knowledge ever. There was a bridges category- with pictures of bridges around the world and you had to name them.

“I’ve been there. Wherever that bridge is, I know I’ve seen it. But I can’t remember where…” I insisted to Andrew giving me a complete blank expression. We later found out it was in Bratislava. The city we were in RIGHT BEFORE PRAGUE! We didn’t win, but we didn’t come in last – and that’s almost as good as winning some nights, right?

On the way home we waited for the tram with a beautiful view of St. Nicholas lit up at night. I, of course, got super nostalgic. I used to walk home looking at the same view night after night during my year in Prague. I darted out in the middle of the street to take a picture. How lucky was (am) I?

Day 325: Mala Strana (part 1)

My old ‘hood: Mala Strana. In 2006, I knew I was lucky to live here (two blocks away from the end of Charles Bridge) and loved every second of it. The neighborhood was (and still is) spectacular (albeit a bit more touristy than I remembered). I walked home either over the infamous bridge or towards one of the more famous churches in town everyday. My roommates were great. Even the ten flights of stairs to climb up to our apartment were more than manageable! It is probably my most favorite place that I’ve ever lived. I missed it all as we walked thirty minutes from our hotel room through the old town towards ‘the little side’ that used to be right out my bedroom window, and front door. Andrew humored me, and insisted he enjoyed hearing me reminisce about my year in Prague. We’ll all just pretend he really meant it and wasn’t tired of my stories after awhile…

I insisted the Kafka Museum was cool. I told Andrew that I’ve been, but still have yet to read any Kafka, so perhaps I should wait to return until I’ve read at least one book to better appreciate the museum. He agreed, and instead we took a picture of the statues of men peeing on a pool of water in the shape of the Czech Republic before moving on. If you want to read about the sculptor, David Cerny, and see more of his pieces, I suggest you check out this article. I had no idea he was the one responsible for so many works throughout Prague! 

Marionettes are popular here, and not just chintzy ones either. While one of our walking tour guides didn’t seem to understand their popularity, a Czech friend of ours remembered shows being put on for children at one point. I love (LOVE) marionette shops and dream of one day having a theater and put on a show much like the one in "The Sound of Music."

These marionettes only ran around $400-$600. I totally would have gotten them… you know, if not for the old budget. Oh right, and the fact that I don’t have a theatre yet, or a house to put it in, or a job to pay for it all…

After a quick lunch and some more of Mala Strana, we plopped down and took a nap in the park.

We walked back towards the area of town sandwiched in between Narodni Divadlo (the national theater) and Narodni Trida (where the best fried cheese sandwich stand used to reside). Walking around this town was like riding a bike. Usually Andrew relies on google maps to get us around, but I wouldn’t even let him peek at his phone, insisting I would figure it out. I did, and it felt good. What didn’t feel so good- eating cold (and overpriced) wings at Jama!

This restaurant, Jama- used to be a block away from where I worked. It had really cheap food (salads and wings were my favorites) and really terrible waitresses. We would go for lunch and try to order tap water with our food, and the waitresses would always insist, “It’s not possible!” wanting us to buy overpriced bottled water instead.

We would always grumble “IT IS POSSIBLE, YOU’RE JUST NOT GOING TO DO IT!” to each other and then order a (cheaper than water) beer instead. A friend of mine who left Prague only a year or so ago warned me about the decline of Jama, but I had to see for myself. At least now I know.

Paying a visit to one of my favorite places, which has (for the most part) remained the same made up for it. Hello, Usudu, you old friend! What’s great- is that it’s still pure awesomeness walking down several flights of stairs through an old, dark wine cellar that has been converted into a bar. What’s not so great- we learned later on that it’s on a tourist pub crawl and if you don’t time it right, you’ll suddenly be surrounded by thirty or forty twenty year old Brit boys drinking Pilsners in Prague for the first time.