Day 41: 24 Hours of Tuk Tuks, Buses, & 1 Train to Laos

We could have flown. That would have been much easier than the 24 hours of travel time it took to get from Siem Reap to Vientiane. Flying would have also been much (much) more expensive than our tuk tuk, bus, train adventure. In case you haven't figured it out by now with the expense reports at the end of each post, we're trying to keep to a budget mostly so we can afford this whole year of adventures. The lower the daily average, the more likely we'll last until Thanksgiving of 2013. So deciding between a $250 (at the absolute lowest) flight and a $25 (roughly) day of transit, we chose the latter. Aside from the three hour wait at the Thai side of the border, the day really wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Andrew says the three hour wait (it was ridiculously hot) was the worst part of our trip so far… but he wasn't sick on an overnight Vietnamese bus, so I can't agree.

9:00 AM mini-bus ride to Poipet (Cambodia/Thai border)…$5.00 

12:00 PM border crossing (longest border crossing of my life by the way)

3:00 PM tuk tuk to Aranyathapet, Thailand for a bus to Khorat…$1.30

6:00 PM bus to Khorat (also known as Nakhon Ratchasima)…$6.86

10:00 PM tuk tuk to Khorat train station…$0.98

11:30 PM train to Nong Khai, Thailand (Thai/Laos border)…$12.02

7:00 AM tuk tuk to Thai/Laos border…$0.98

8:30 AM bus across Mekong River to Laos side…$0.65

9:00 AM bus to downtown Vientiane…$0.75

9:30 AM tuk tuk to coffee shop in Vientiane to call/meet Hans…$0.62

(Unfortunately it seems as though Lightroom lost (or, more accurately, while trying to import my images in an organized fashion I lost) tonight's picture of us trying to sleep in a bright florescent lit (all night long folks) over air-conditioned train car. Sorry, I'm sure this annoys you as much as it does me.)

Day 40: Our Last Day in Siem Reap

Our last day in Siem Reap was spent mostly waiting out the rain in the same coffee shop down the street from our guesthouse. We went to the market for some concrete bag bags (obviously, I wanted to do this more so than Andrew). Thai concrete comes in these sturdy bags with a big elephant on the front. Someone came up with a brilliant idea of repurposing the bags into wearable totes, ipad covers, wallets, you name it. They are quite cute, and I felt like I was playing a round of Texas Hold Em bartering and bluffing over prices in the market. I got a big, plastic covered tote for $5.00 (she started at $10.00) Winning! Linda helped me find a good massage salon before dinner, and then we wandered through the night markets thinking they'd be more elaborate than those in the day – but really, they were same same (not different at all).

Day 39: Angkor Wat

You would probably think that the day we would go to Angkor Wat would not begin with three hours working in a coffee shop, but it did. We spent the morning and a bit of the early afternoon working, instead of waking up to see the sunrise over Angkor. Our friends (and as was the case in the past) said that there were SO. MANY. TOURISTS. there for sunrise, it didn't sound like a pleasant experience to me at all. So we left for Angkor Wat somewhere between 2 and 3 in the afternoon and casually made our way through the temple. We stopped often to sit and take in the view or people watch. We climbed up to the top only when there was no line. And then we got kicked out at closing and we were able to just as casually make our way out with much less of a crowd around. Fact: Temples are much better sans tourists (especially of the group variety). Also, a quiet sunset is much more lovely than a loud sunrise.

Did you know that Angkor Wat is the largest Hindu temple complex in the world? I didn't. I also didn't know that it was dedicated to Vishnu (a beautifully preserved statue is in one of the main entrances to the complex, as you can see above), the Hindu god also known as the 'preserver of the universe.' I refused to buy a book on Angkor Wat this time around, because I have a feeling I bought exact same one four years ago, and it is currently sitting on one of my shelves at my parents' home- so I had to rely on the internets to jog my memory of the history of the complex. According to Wikipedia, much of the construction (by King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century) is based around Hindu mythology but in the late 13th century, it moved to Buddhism, as it currently stands today. Not to get super religious on y'all, but I think it's fascinating that a Hindu temple can change to be a Buddhist one. Does that happen with other religious sites without war breaking out? I tried several times to get into a World Religions class in college, but it would always fill up before I had a chance to register. I'm anxious to read more about Buddhism and Hinduism (especially before we hit India) so if you have any suggestions, please let me know!

Monkeys roamed outside of the temple, trying to sneak water and plastic bags away from tourists. Inside of the temple, people were everywhere. The most frustrating part is wondering what it is going to be like in another four years… I shudder just thinking about it. I don't remember the top of the temple being open for visitors when Jane and I were there last, though, and it was fun to see a new view of the complex and have a more intimate visit with the bas relief sculptures when most of the tourists cleared out near closing time.

I was especially drawn to the bas reliefs of the apsaras and devatas. These dancing girls or nymphs are derived from Indian mythology- again, I love how an Indian myth was incorporated into Khmer architecture. 

On our way out of the temple, a man standing guard in front of an altar asked if I wanted to bow in front of it. "For good luck!" he called after me. For good luck AND a dollar, I wanted to respond. Instead, I held up both wrists clad with good luck strings and said "I have lots of good luck already!" and he smiled. I was relieved and glad to walk back through an almost empty temple, mostly so Andrew could have a feel for what it was like. Hoards of tourists distract me. (I'm working on this) I don't like how much it takes away from the immensity and/or beauty of a place when people are bumping into you or yelling out to their companions. In the halls and standing outside the walls sans crowd, it's easier to feel small and in awe of what kind of work went into the structure so long ago, and how well it's held up over time.

Outside of the complex, we were immediately confronted by a 10 (maybe 12?) year old boy selling post-cards with a t-shirt on that read "I could be your son." "Where did you get that shirt?" I asked him, laughing at his unique um, marketing skills? He shrugged, yet with a smile in his eyes I could tell he was little amused that I was calling him out on wearing it to a tourist site to sell postcards. "Shouldn't you be playing or studying or something right now?" I asked him. "I studied this morning. You want postcards?" He responded, possibly rolling his eyes. I have to admit, four years ago, children were EVERYWHERE begging for money, selling bracelets, drawing pictures for you in hopes of a tip. Now, the only children you'll see are strictly selling either post-cards or bracelets. It felt like progress, even though they obviously shouldn't be selling anything at all…

One child vendor worked the "downtown" streets of Siem Reap selling bracelets and roses. Her name is Linda, or Srey Neang (I might have the spelling wrong on her Cambodian name) and took a liking to Andre, and then me and Andrew. Linda is 12 years old, speaks English really well, and has more spunk than any 12 year old I've ever met. She was out every night, and would usually spot us eating and come up to our table, not asking if we wanted to buy a bracelet, but instead would chat with us and more likely than not, call Andre out on his late night antics at Angkor What? bar. Over the four days we chatted with her, we learned that she lives with her mother, grandmother, and sister. Her mother sells mangoes. Her father died, though we're not sure when or how. She wants to be a teacher when she grows up, and sadly, her friend was ran into by a car while he was biking home one of the days we were there and did not survive. To say our hearts melted when she told us was an understatement.

Again, I wrestled with the "Do I break down and buy a bracelet (or her whole basket of bracelets) or not?" conundrum. I didn't. She didn't seem to mind, and was content playing with my hair and hugging on me, which was sweet, even though part of me felt like an asshole for not "helping her out" even though in the back of my mind I know it's not necessarily helping her at all… Or would it be? See… It's hard. What would you do? My concerns were calmed seeing how well Linda was looked after. If she dropped a bracelet, a waitress at the nearest restaurant would come over and pick it up for her, and they rarely shooed her away from tables when she was chatting with us or trying to sell to others. One night, a policeman snuck up on her and took her roses out of her basket. Andrew and I felt terrible we didn't see him in time to warn her to hide. She told us not to worry, that he would give them back to her an hour later.

Day 38: Ta Prohm is still my favorite

We started out at Angkor Thom, Andrew indulged me recreating a few pictures I took four years ago in the exact same broken archway of a wall in Bayon, before we meandered through Baphoun (it's a little on the boring side) through the Terrace of Elephants until we ended our first day at the temples at Ta Prohm, also known as the jungle temple, also known as the Tomb Raider temple. It's my favorite.  

When I left Korea (for the first time) in 2008, I spent roughly 2 months traveling around S.E. Asia on my own. It was probably the most amazing experience of my entire life – that is up until what is already proving to be some stiff competition traveling around with Andrew right now! I met Jane in my first city, Hanoi and had a lovely time, mostly getting lost around the city. I was overjoyed when we met back up in Siem Reap, and then again in Chang Mai. Not only is it pretty awesome meeting so many new people as you travel, but it's exponentially better when you make plans to meet in a different city, or as sometimes happens, you run into each other randomly in a different country! Spending the day exploring the temples with Jane was really great, and by far so much less crowded than it was exploring with Andrew today! Regardless of the crowds, we managed to get some pretty fun pictures.

Angkor Thom means 'Great City' and survived more than any other Khmer city or temple during the Khmer Empire. It's impressive in a different way than Angkor Wat is. You drive over this bridge that is lined with huge giant faces, that are replicated on the gates and within the city and temple structures themselves.

Bayon, or Prasat Bayon is at the center of the city. Built by King Jayavarman VII, it was his official state Buddhist temple. After his death, subsequent kings changed the temple according to their own religious preferences- between Hindu and Buddhist. The faces of Bayon are thought to be Jayavarman himself, but I don't think that is a proven fact. It's interesting to me that everyone automatically thinks of Angkor Wat as the hero of the temples surrounding Siem Reap. While it is obviously impressive, I think Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm should be equally revered, perhaps for how different, yet equally impressive they are.

Because Bayon is a more compact temple, and the heat was maddening, we sat at the top for awhile in the shade of one of the many great faces. We chatted with a tour guide waiting for his tour of one who was taking pictures and laughed as he poked fun at the different nationalities of visitors to Siem Reap. His French accent was spot on, and his obvious disdain for Korean tourists was predictable. No offense Korea, but when you're in a big group traveling, you kinda act like you're still in Korea and everyone around you should readily understand and allow your ridiculous behavior. I'm talking to you ajjushi smoking IN A TEMPLE next to a NO SMOKING SIGN! (I almost yelled at him in Korean, but wasn't quite up for the 'ooohs and ahhhs' of a foreigner speaking Korean- outside of Korea nonetheless) We stopped outside of Baphoun to take a few (cheesy? yes please!) pictures!

Baphoun is a Hindu temple inside of Angkor Thom. Baphoun can be summed up rather accurately as "a whole bunch of steep stairs." There used to be a reclining Buddha, but it wasn't there, and I'm not certain if anyone knows exactly why it isn't there now. It's suggested that because of the unstable land (apparently it was built on land filled sand) is the cause of parts of the temple collapsing.

Hot and sticky, we walked past the Elephant Terrace, straight to our driver so we could have more time at Ta Prohm. I was immediately struck by how many vendors there were, how few children there were, and how much restoration has taken place in the last four years. In a way, approaching the temple was a bit unrecognizable as so many wooden walkways have been set up and SO MANY TOURISTS were there! When Jane and I went, maybe ten other people were there, and we were largely able to do what we wanted in the temple. We sat for awhile and listened to the birds (at least that hasn't changed!) and were barely interrupted by other visitors. This time around, large tour groups marched through. Wooden platforms were set up in front of trees for more "ideal" photo opportunities. And vendors were set up inside the temple!

Despite all of the changes (not necessarily for the better) we were still able to slip deeper into the temple where the tour groups seemed to skip over.

The same king who built Bayon, established Ta Prohm as a Buddhist monastery and university, so it seemed fitting that I was able to sneak a shot of two monks sitting outside of the temple on our way out the East entrance. I thought I was going a little crazy remembering it in such a different state, but it turns out that in 2010, India began restoring the temple by clearing out bushes and shrubbery and building the (hideous) wooden walkways and platforms that totally take away from the jungle temple experience I had four years ago. It's still my favorite. I just hope India chills with the restoration efforts so Ta Prohm doesn't lose anymore of it's charm. 

Day 37: A Lazy Day with Andre

Full disclosure: we stayed out a little too late with Andre (but not as late as he wanted us to!) the night before. Fifty cent beers y'all! And while I did not get kicked out of Angkor What? bar this time around, (it wasn't my fault, I swear) I did bust a move in the club with my backpack on. I'm sexy and I know it! (er, not really, at all.) So, when we got up, our plan was to have sandwiches at Cafe de la Paix because I read this awesome review. Unfortunately the cafe has since been relocated, and after an hour looking, we barely escaped a downpour at a Cambodian restaurant and then decided we'd save the temples for tomorrow. Instead we got ice cream, wandered through the market, and the boys stayed out at night, while I escaped "home" only to have the electricity cut out. Later, we learned the electricity cuts out every night when Siem Reap switches from Thai electric to Cambodian or vice versa. The girl who told us, a bartender on Pub Street (or maybe it was her friend working on her thesis? I forget which) said she imagined a Cambodian man in front of a wall of switches turning one set on and then another set off every night. Once she said that, I too imagined that was what was going on everytime everything went pitch black for a second -or more.

Day 36: Six hours to Siem Reap

Andrew was all about this boat ride. It was six hours and $20.00 (about three hours longer and $15.00 more expensive than the bus) but he heard it was worth it, and so we went to Siem Reap by boat. Because it's currently monsoon (or rainy) season, the trip was 2-3 hours shorter because we could shortcut through the flood plains. This meant narrow channels, branches brushing up against the nylon window cover and boats barely being able to pass each other, and an overwhelming appreciation it wasn't raining. We chatted with an Australian family, we lounged on the roof of the boat, and we took lots of pictures and videos of the "floating villages" we passed through. And then, the best part of the day: we tracked down our friend, Andre, waiting for us in Siem Reap!

When we were approaching the dock, Andrew and I were lounging on the roof of the boat. He scurried down a little bit faster than myself, so we were docking while I was midair jumping down from the roof into the small stairwell into the boat. Simultaneous to my mid-air suspension, a hoard of men rushed the boat in such a flurry that I wondered who was trying to sneak drugs into Siem Reap. All wearing the same shirt, I watched wide-eyed as I settled my feet onto the boat and then was accosted: "You want tuk tuk?" They weren't policemen busting a big drug deal, they were simply tuk tuk drivers completely oblivious to the madness they were creating on board, not even waiting for us to get off the boat! One man was furious, and yelled at the tuk tuk driver who was immediately to my right. The tuk tuk driver rolled his eyes and asked me if I wanted a tuk tuk. "No way dude!" I responded, "You nearly knocked me off of the boat. There's no way I'm going anywhere with you!" Obviously unaware we already had a driver and a room waiting for us, he morphed into the diva he was born to be and just short of snapping his fingers at me, he responded: "See if you get a ride or a hotel in Siem Reap then!"

Momma, you asked what a tuk tuk was, this is it: (Ours conveniently broke down on the way into town, so I took the opportunity to snap a picture for you)